Archive for March, 2015

March 27, 2015

Post 54 – Samoa Samoas (Part 2)

Jean stands behind a tikki in front of the pool at Aggie Greys.

Jean stands behind a tikki in front of the pool at Aggie Greys.

The Tofua docked in the harbor near the capital city of Apia the next morning, having traveled 137 miles in twelve hours. They probably could have swum there faster, but Larry and Jean were happy to have their snug little berths nearby after discovering that a double shot of scotch in the ship’s lounge was one shilling each. The change from dollars to pounds was a bit confusing, made even more so when they realized they were only paying fourteen cents per drink and might as well take advantage of the exchange rate. Although breakfast tea was included in the cruise cost, the idea of facing the judgemental steward again after a night of hanging out in the bar was more than Larry and Jean could handle. They tossed each girl a banana, said goodbye to their English roommate (who nearly dropped her cigar as she attempted to wave and eat a scone at the same time) and stepped off the gangplank to a new Samoa!

Which looked exactly like the old Samoa. The same palm trees, the same lava landscapes, the same hair-curling humidity – the islands were bigger, but disappointingly familiar. Yet there was a different energy in the damp air, a bustle in the streets of the larger city with more cars, more shops and a feeling of formality that seemed startlingly out-of-place after the casualness of Pago Pago. The Brits were gone but old habits die hard, and the family felt like they should immediately start drinking tea and stop brushing their teeth.

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March 20, 2015

Post 53 – Samoa Samoas (Part 1)

A worm-free Karen in Western Samoa.

A worm-free Karen in Western Samoa.

After eighteen months on the island, the family felt like they could use a change of scenery. In Detroit, Larry would have just piled everyone in the car and taken off for a weekend drive to a nearby interesting place. After all, Flint, MI was only 130 miles away! But if you already lived in a paradise that happened to be in the middle of the world’s largest ocean, the choices were limited.

They decided to visit Western Samoa, which was not only NOT on their island of Tutuila, but was also an entirely different country. Owned at various times by the Germans and the British, the islands declared their independence in 1962 and were now attempting to try their hand at governing themselves. Being your own boss can be a giddy feeling, and the government has made some bold choices, most of them in the past twenty years or so.

In 1997, they amended the constitution to change the country’s name from Western Samoa to simply Samoa. This pissed off American Samoans, who asserted that the change diminished their own identities in whatever the Samoan translation of “what are we, chopped liver?” would be. The people of American Samoa still use the terms Western Samoa and Western Samoans to describe the independent state and its inhabitants, because they are not the boss of them. survivorsamoa-logoThis change was unfortunately reinforced when the reality TV show Survivor filmed three different seasons there (2009) and blatantly put it on the show logo for millions to see. This was the season that introduced Russell Hanz to the general viewing audience, much to their dismay.

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March 13, 2015

Post 52 – The Samoan Fales: A Complete Fail if You Pronounce it Wrong*

South Pacific programThe Island Community Player’s production of Little Mary Sunshine had whetted the appetite of the family for musical theatre. Altough one disillusioned 9-year old felt she belonged on the stage instead of in the audience, they were delighted to attend a high school production of a classic musical. Rodgers and Hammerstein’s South Pacific was so perfect for the island setting that it seemed odd that no one had attempted to perform it before. Although the family owned many Broadway soundtracks and sang them loudly and unbidden, this was one musical they had never heard. The plot was loosely derived from Michener’s Tales of the South Pacific, and Jean fervently hoped that the story of the man with the wheelbarrow-sized scrotum had not been included.

From the very first song, the girls were hooked. South Pacific is one of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s most glorious scores, and the cast was nailing the songs as they plowed through “A Cockeyed Optimist”, “Some Enchanted Evening” and “There is Nothing Like a Dame”. The plot centers on American nurse Nellie Forbush, stationed on a South Pacific island during World War II, who falls in love with a middle-aged French plantation owner but struggles to accept his mixed-race children. The issue of racial prejudice is candidly explored throughout the musical, most controversially in the song, “You’ve Got to Be Carefully Taught”.

However, the controversial interracial aspect was somewhat lost in the translation, as all of the parts were being played by Samoans. The girls turned to each other in bewilderment as the Samoan Nellie sobbed to Samoan Emil DeBeque that she could never marry him because his children were Samoan. But at least the songs were pretty.

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March 6, 2015

Post 51 – Caviar of the Sea

The chickens are dyed pastel colors for Easter.

The chickens are dyed pastel colors for Easter.

A year and a half into the two-year contract, nothing much phased the family anymore. Pigs in the road were to be expected. Parades with marching men in lava lavas followed by floats full of tie-dyed chickens happened on a regular basis. Five inches of rain in an hour simply meant the laundry would take a little longer to dry. Gradually, the extraordinary had become mundane.

Larry felt that they had become too acclimated. Although they had moved to a new culture, they had brought comfort items and bad habits from home. Jean and Larry had sampled some of the native-flavored foods on the island, but the children were picky eaters and remained stubbornly loyal to more traditional fare. Carolyn still refused to eat many meals, preferring to wait until there was something she really liked and then stocking up by having several helpings. Larry decided that some tough love was going to be needed to force the children out of their comfort zone.

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